got any questions?

topic posted Wed, April 20, 2005 - 6:04 PM by  Unsubscribed
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im an audi tech and i wont bs you as the service writer would....
i'll give you the low down and the info to get your questions answered.
but unforunatly i cant give away trade secrets.
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  • Unsu...
     

    Re: got any questions?

    Wed, April 20, 2005 - 7:02 PM
    cool, so when do you recommand regular visits to the dealer for checkups and such. And what is it with this super new sophisticated oil
    the new models use. Is it really good for 100k or more?
    - H
    • Unsu...
       

      Re: got any questions?

      Thu, April 21, 2005 - 10:47 PM
      depends on the engine...the 1.8t engine the new oil recomended because the engines have issues with oil pressure and the oil pump screen getting clogged and the synthetic oil doesnt cause this. the new v8's its always recomended to use synthetic because of the design of the engine(its built for synthetic) but on the 2.8 and the 3.0 regular oil works. i still recomend an oil change every 5k. other than that just follow the maint schedule.
      • Unsu...
         

        Re: got any questions?

        Sat, April 23, 2005 - 6:09 PM
        Also, for the 1.8T Audi now recommends using a different oil filter, the filter for the old VW diesel Rabbit. If you have a dealer perform the oil change they will use this filter.

        Virtually all of the franchise oil changers and most independant shops that don't work on German cars will use non-German oil filters; most of the non-German oil filters don't have a check-valve so if the car sits for a long period oil can drain out of the hydraulic valve lifters. Purists claim this can damage the engine; I don't know if this is true but I always use the German filters anyway. The new high-end Framm oil filters supposedly have check valves.

        You can get the German filters from sources other than an Audi dealer. The good brands you'll commonly find are Mann and Mahle. I think Wix is supposed to be a good filter. Try any German auto performance or parts shop.

        I use Mobil-1 0W-40 synthetic motor oil. It costs more but can be changed every 10,000 miles. It holds up better in high temperature situations (such as stop-and-go traffic.) Mobil-1 0W-40 synthetic is supposedly the factory fill oil for Porsche and Mercedes and meets all manufacturers' standards. You can buy it anywhere. Lots of techs swear by synthetic oil for engines with high mileage. And of course you should only use synthetic oil in the 1.8T engine (even in the TT.)

        So, you can buy a case of synthetic motor oil and some good German oil filters, then simply hand a filter and some oil to whoever does your oil change. And while your at it you can get a German air filter or two. This way you insure that the best stuff is used.
        • Unsu...
           

          Re: got any questions?

          Mon, April 25, 2005 - 3:15 PM
          sounds like you have it under control... the only thing that sucks is the price. the 1.8ts ar good engines but they have to be meticulously maintained.
          • Unsu...
             

            Re: got any questions?

            Wed, April 27, 2005 - 10:46 PM
            Well, the Mobil-1 does cost $5.00/quart, but you can go 10,000 miles on it, so its just about as economical as regular motor oil.
    • Unsu...
       

      Re: got any questions?

      Mon, August 29, 2005 - 6:48 PM
      well at our dealership on the regular maint that scheduled we check, brakes, tires and other parts for wear and tear. ar eyou talking the engine oil or gear oil? the new cvt trans oil is cool stuff but it depends on the year and what not. if its the engine oil then i would maybe go 10,000 miles at the most and thats the man recommended service schedule.
      i know its expensive but audis can be a little tempermental if not treated right and i've seen it go with an oil change/service every 5k. its good for the car and take care of any little things that are noticed BEFORE it becomes a very large issue... i.e. oil leaks. i do it on my car and its my professional opinion.
      • COIN DRAWER

        Wed, August 31, 2005 - 10:02 AM
        hey, have any of you guys removed the coin drawer that pops out above the radio (99 a6)?

        looks like you need to remove the two bolts on each side of the whole unit (coin drawer, emergency flasher, cup holder) take it out and then somehow it becomes evident how to remove the drawer? just from the front there is no apparent way to release the drawer. the spring is broken so the drawer won't pop out anymore. i bought a replacement drawer, but could use some pointers . thanks again for the help!!!!!!!!!!!
        • Unsu...
           

          Re: COIN DRAWER

          Thu, September 8, 2005 - 12:12 AM
          ahhhh dont remove the screws. remove the cover(wood grain or flat black cover by prying on one side then the other; very carefully it has six little clips holding it on)
          then there should be two clips at the top holding it in. on the casing the clips are at the top on the left and right corner. as you look at it the clips face you at the top. ok if i keep going i need a diagram... not kidding i wish i was. place a pocket screwdriver(flat blade) inbetween top left and right corner of the assembly and the center console. it should slide out be careful though there is a small plug in the back. i hope i helped for a simple thing its difficult to describe. sorry
          • Re:water on the floor????????

            Thu, September 8, 2005 - 3:52 PM
            this is really weird, i was driving for an extended period -6 hrs - with a/c, so apparently the front and rear on the passenger side started accumulating water which seemed to be comming from underneath the carpet! it seemed like it started in the back seat. first i thought i spilled a drink but then later it appeared in the front seat as well. it was odor less and clear, so it seemed like water. anway, one theory my friend proposed was maybe the a/c was creating condensation under the car that was somehow leaking up into the cabin. anyway, i have never seen this happen, so what the hell? how could water come up from under the carpet???????
            • Unsu...
               

              Re:water on the floor????????

              Thu, September 8, 2005 - 9:38 PM
              the drain for the evaporator is run from under the right side of the dash to under the rug. it sounds like you have a clogged drain. its not uncommon. i would recommend bringing it to a dealer ( you have to pull up the rug to get to the drain and unclog it) and yes it is water put a towel or something to soak up the water till you can get it fixed.
  • Re: got any questions?

    Mon, November 14, 2005 - 7:37 AM
    I just got a 2006 2.0t. After havingt a 225 hp TT for 4 years this car sems a little, shall we say, Sluggish in comparison. Does 25 hp make that much difference? Is there a way to get performance up other than chipping the engine?
    • Unsu...
       

      Re: got any questions?

      Sun, November 20, 2005 - 12:38 PM
      The reason it seems sluggish is because the horsepower-to-weight ratio is lower. The A4 2.0T has 25 less hp and is also a heavier car than the TT; I think the A3 is also heavier. The GIAC software for the 2.0T isn't out yet, that will be the best way to increase horsepower; of course, you void your Audi warranty by re-flashing the ECU.
  • Re: got any questions?

    Mon, November 14, 2005 - 7:42 AM
    I had a TT for a few years and remember having to add a quart of oil about every 1500 miles since day 1. I now bought a 2.0t 2006. Am I to expect the same results of weak rings? IU am sort of scared to wait 5k to check the oil. It doesn't bother me so much as warranty would replace my engine but wouldn't Audi want to see the car before 5k at least to save Them money or cover their ass persay?
    • Unsu...
       

      Re: got any questions?

      Tue, November 15, 2005 - 7:16 PM
      yes its the norm for the audi engines, im surprised the you find the 2.0t sluggishi gues it depends on what you have but i have always found them pretty peppy almost on par with the 225hp. chipping makes a difference but if you do spend the extra money and get one you can change back to factory settings otherwise if you get found out audi will void your warranty. i post on other sites about this and im already starting to hear people bitching about this, audi isnt the same company it was five years ago where they didnt care and covered everything. its getting too competitive and so read your warranty book carefully and know your shit before bringing it into a dealer for an issue so you dont get the surprise of finding out that the problem you want fixed isnt covered and you have to pay for it. in answer to your other question nope i havent seen any real problems before 5k(its better than the 10k they used to use for a service interval) its a fair even number and if you dont thrash on the car you'll be ok.
      • Re: key not working

        Wed, November 16, 2005 - 9:31 AM
        hey, my key stopped doing the remote lock/unlock thing. does it require a battery?
        • Re: key not working

          Thu, November 17, 2005 - 2:44 PM
          I replaced my battery and it still didn't work. The guy at the dealership showed me the secret-handshake way to re-set it...

          I think it's:

          1) stick key in door and lock door with key (not button).
          2) press "unlock" button.
          3) Wati about ten seconds.
          4) Hold "unlock" button down for a few seconds till it unlocks.

          This is how a new key is programmed, and my key "forgot" once and this method worked. Otherwise you may have to go to the dealership (unless someone else here has a suggestion).
          • Unsu...
             

            Re: key not working

            Sun, November 27, 2005 - 7:37 PM
            In some cases the door lock actuators fail and have to be replaced. This wasn't the case in your situation, because the re-learn procedure worked. All the electronic goodies are nice, but they also increase the chance of something failing; its the world we live in.
            • Unsu...
               

              Re: key not working

              Wed, November 30, 2005 - 6:41 PM
              if you use one remote more than the other its possible for the other remote to "lose" its place in the control module memory. audi uses a rotating code on the remotes and if one remote is used more than the other remote is still using the old frequency and therefore inop.
          • jj
            jj
            offline 0

            Re: key not working

            Thu, December 22, 2005 - 9:09 PM
            Your secret handshake didn't work on my 99 A8. However, if I manually locked the car with the key, then put the key into the door lock and turned the key to the right as if unlocking the car and at the same time held the unlock button down, the electronics started working again: all windows rolled down while all interior lights went on, etc., etc.
            Hope this is decipherable and that it helps somebody.
  • alignment and cv boot

    Fri, December 23, 2005 - 12:19 PM
    hi,

    thanks for doing this!
    i just got 99 A6 quatro. 1) I puchased new tires and did alingment at Pep Boys. is it ok? or it is very specific adjustment and should be done at dealer only?

    Also I just did an oil change synth 0W40 replacing regular (is it ok?). I saw oily left CV boot, at the same time the leak of power stering was diagnosed and supposedly fixed. (I don't trust the mechanic) So how do I check if CV boot is bad or it's just spillovers from oil leaks?

    • Unsu...
       

      Re: alignment and cv boot

      Sun, December 25, 2005 - 2:20 PM
      Regarding proper alignment, it is important that someone who really knows what they are doing align an Audi, although a 1999 model will be easier to align than a pre-98 (different type of suspension design.) The most important thing is that they tighten the tie rod ends with the knuckles perpendicular to the strut bolt holes. Many people get the wheels aligned properly, but they don't align the knuckles; what this means is that when you make sharp turns the knuckles are inhibited from pivoting, this in turn will wear out the tie-rod ends quicker and can sometimes even crack loose the turnbuckle. If they do a really bad job the knuckle will contact the strut even when making slight turns. A quattro requires a four wheel alignment. I believe the book time is 1 hour each for both front and rear (a total of 2 hours for a quattro.)

      Mobil-1 0 W 40 is an execellent synthetic oil. You should still check the oil level regularly (I check once a week.) I use Mobil-1 0 W 40 synthetic and go 9,000 miles between oil changes.

      The power steering pumps are notorious for leaking. The pump can leak and also both ends of the power steering inlet hose (the hose from the reservoir that feeds the pump) will leak. The only way to fix a leaking pump is to replace or rebuild it (the replacement units are rebuilt).

      You will have to look at the CV boots to see if they are split; the easiest way to do this is to hoist the car on a rack.

      I think Josh will be able to add to this.
      • Re: alignment and cv boot

        Tue, December 27, 2005 - 5:14 PM
        Adrien thanks!

        So I guess 40 minutes spent on alignment is obviously not enough.

        I agree with you about excellent quality of 0W40 but today I noticed some slight engine knocking sound. My guess this happened because of lower viscosity compared to old regular 15W40.
        • Unsu...
           

          Re: alignment and cv boot

          Tue, December 27, 2005 - 9:11 PM
          Well, I'm not saying the alignment was done improperly. An experienced and fast tech can do the alignment in 40 minutes (or less.) What I am saying is that aligning an Audi is tricky and alignment in general is becoming something of a lost art/skill. Most people these days get rid of their cars before alignment becomes an issue. The car manufacturers are also doing their best to "take the mechanic out of the car." The car companies want you to buy a new car every 3-5 years.

          The knocking sound is interesting. Perhaps the heavier natural oil served to buffer the sound, the synthetic oil shouldn't cause knocking.
          • Re: alignment and cv boot

            Sat, December 31, 2005 - 9:46 AM
            This is interesting information.

            I bought a used Audi, got an alignment and then shortly afterward needed new tie rod ends and another alignment. Now my car is slightly out of alignment again and it's started making the same sounds it did before when I needed new tie rod ends. I'm really suspicious that the mechanics didn't do it right.

            My problem is this, the previous work was under warranty. Should I go back and try to hold these guys to it, or just say that shop doesn't know what they are doing and take it to the dealership this time. God I do not want to pay for tie rod ends twice in one year.
            • Unsu...
               

              Re: alignment and cv boot

              Sat, December 31, 2005 - 5:22 PM
              If you can point out that they did it wrong, then they should then know how it is suppose to look and hopefully do it properly. It is kind of hard to explain in writing. I will try to take a photo and send it to you, or maybe draw a diagram. What model and year is the car? Did it make a "clanking" or "clunking" noise when you made a turn?
            • Unsu...
               

              Re: alignment and cv boot

              Sat, December 31, 2005 - 5:30 PM
              One thing I forgot to mention. You really only want to use OEM quality or dealer tie rod ends. Lemforder is the OEM brand for at least the more recent Audis.

              Using OEM German tie rod ends is important. The shop may have used some cheapo ones from who knows where; the cheap ones will wear much quicker, but not as quick as it sounds in your case. Improper installation will also mess them up.

              I've seen a case where someone used non-German (don't want to say where they were made) suspension parts (tie rod ends and control arms) on a BMW 740. The shop may have also installed them improperly. They were shot within 6 months and had to be replaced again.
              • Re: alignment and cv boot

                Sat, December 31, 2005 - 6:33 PM
                I have a '98 A4. The noise I hear is actually when I go over a bumb the is a hard rattle. It feels as if the right front wheel bounces harder and longer than the rest of the car.
                • Re: alignment and cv boot

                  Sat, December 31, 2005 - 6:34 PM
                  I meant to say:

                  I have a '98 A4. The noise I hear is when I go over a bump there is a hard rattle. It sounds and feels as if the front right wheel bounces harder and longer than the rest of the car.
                  • This is the maximum depth. Additional responses will not be threaded.
                    Unsu...
                     

                    Re: alignment and cv boot

                    Sun, January 1, 2006 - 6:37 PM
                    It would be a good idea to have the entire suspension system inspected by an experienced and competent tech. Also, there is a recall for lower control arms on the 98 A4; the recall is called the "JE" recall. Audi will inspect the lower control arms and if there is any problem with them will replace them free of charge. Note this doesn't cover upper control arms or tie rod ends, and Audi won't pay for an alignment after the "JE" work is done.
            • Unsu...
               

              Re: alignment and cv boot

              Mon, January 2, 2006 - 4:47 PM
              hmmm its impossible to misinstall these tie rods. is your car lowered or have suspension on it, if so the tie rods may be sitting at an angle that wears them out fast than is supposed to. if its undrewarranty get the paperwork and have a go at talking to these guys... six months is way too short a time to have issues.
              • Unsu...
                 

                Re: alignment and cv boot

                Fri, January 6, 2006 - 8:07 PM
                That's what I said, many people install them at a bad angle. Most of the time that causes them to wear quicker, but in extreme cases it can cause the turnbuckle (inside, threaded portion of tie rod,) to loosen, not a good thing.
  • key

    Sat, December 31, 2005 - 10:44 PM
    I'm ignorant about modern car keys. My key for my 2002 Audi A4 stopped working remotely. Do I need a new battery? Is the battery replaceable by me? Thanks.
    • Re: key

      Sun, January 1, 2006 - 1:38 PM
      Chris,

      There is discussion on this topic further up in this thread. There's a way to try to re-program it in case it de-programmed itself (first thing to try because it's free). Otherwise, you may just have to bring it in. The batteries are tough to get out of those little suckers!
  • Windshield wiper bugaboo.

    Sun, January 1, 2006 - 4:45 PM
    Hi, Josh ... happy new year. My wipers stick. Suddenly, they freeze in an upward position. I need to pull over. Turn of the engine. Jiggle wiper a little. Turn it back on, and usually this does the job, and the wipers are once again working. However, because we have lots of the wet stuff here in Northern California, this has occurred about five times, thus far. I figure it's either the windshield wiper "motor" or a regulator? Only thing, on two occurances, there has also been an interior light bugaboo, as well. I'll lock the car and sometimes the interior light does not go off. These two problems began this week on the same day, concurrently; though not necessarily at the same exact time. I assume they're connected. If so, then perhaps replacing the motor is not the solution? Or maybe it is? I'd like to know so I may call Audi tomorrow January 2, and make sure they have the part in the shop. Thanks.
    • Unsu...
       

      Re: Windshield wiper bugaboo.

      Mon, January 2, 2006 - 4:31 PM
      wow, i go away for a while and lots o questions. i agree use the oem tie rods their stronger than the old ones. a proper audi alignment can actually take only half and hour but it depends on the tech, if he/she is doing the front olny or the rear as well. audi has one more slight adjustment that you need special tools for in addition to the normal alignment.
      it kinda sounds like the wipers not fully tightend but i could be wrong. how far north are you? is it both arms or only one? if its loose the arm will move slightly on the splined motor and eventually get stuck. if you want to check it yourself/ have the tools.... open the hood, look at the wiper arm theres a plastic cap you need off a very thin bladed screwdriver can pop this off and its a 16mm nut. see if its loose. i've never (knock on wood) seen a wiper motor go bad but i could. the light issue could be a bad door latch microswitch thats not reading closed and the circuit stays open. if you take it in mention this if your under warranty or audi assured and they should do a check on the switches and computer for the alarm/locking system.
      l
      • Unsu...
         

        Re: Windshield wiper bugaboo.

        Mon, January 2, 2006 - 4:43 PM
        ok to catch up with the questions.....
        engine noises- depending on noise if straight from the engine
        what type of motor? audis are notortious for sounding like deisels. but then again the chain tensioner with controls the variable cam timing is oil pressure driven; its possible it can fail or not be getting enough oil pressure to run properly.
        have you tried the mobile one 5-30w? to be honest i use it on my car and it works great. and the oil is audi approved(whatever that means)
        noise over bumps- on one side... or both?
        have the upper suspention links checked as well as the tie rods. the je only covered the lower control arms and helped the noise but didnt make it go away. a torn boot is asking for the grease inside to escape and allow the ball joint to wear and provide excessive free play. from what is sounds like
        thats your issue. dont shoot the messenger but thats a pricey job and yes do an alignment at the same time.
        2002 key fobs- its possible even probable do you use the remote alot? like all things they break too. i'd go for the battery first and try to reset the basic settings onthe remote system (you can pop open the fob yourself and get the battery at a longs or wallgreens) try this first or if its still under warranty let the dealreship check it out.
        • Noise over bumps

          Wed, January 4, 2006 - 12:45 PM
          The dealership today told me that I had a tear starting in the left outer CV boot. I had thought the sound was on the right side, but I told them to go ahead and replace that.

          They also suggested a coolant flush as the color of the coolant did not match the the factory color. I did not have them replace this but now I'm thinking that maybe I should. I bought the car a year ago and I'm not sure when that coolant was put in there. Also I've having major service done now, maybe I should just let them do it.
      • Re: Windshield wiper bugaboo.

        Tue, January 3, 2006 - 10:26 PM
        Joshua, I brought in today but they wanted me to keep it overnight so they can find out what the problem could be; gave me an estimate of anywhere between $300 to $500 depending on whether or not it required replacing the windshield wiper motor. Well, I said thanks but no thanks, and drove away. These wipes became stuck once December 30th and then twice on December 31st. Each time BOTH wipers were stuck pointing upward. Each time by turning off the engine, getting out and slightly jiggling the wiper, then turning the engine back on the problem was alleviated, but only temporarily. Does it sound like a motor replacement to you? It doesn't to me. But what really burns is the fact that the technician didn't even do what you suggested, which was remove the caps and see if it was loose. He said if BOTH wipers are stuck it's probably the motor. If only one was stuck and the other kept going it was probably only in need of a tightening adjustment. The light isn't a big problem, it's something that I can drive with simply by turning them off, but the wipers (even though the cause may be simple) is a big problem ... but not warranting a big price tag to fix. So, you suggest having somebody pop off the cap and tighten? If that's not the cause, then I guess I'm trapped between a 16 mm nut and a nutso $500 repair. Doesn't seem logical or fair, does it?
        • Unsu...
           

          Re: Windshield wiper bugaboo.

          Sat, January 14, 2006 - 4:07 PM
          Hi Edwin,

          Unfortunately, the motor unit most likely will need replacement. This is because the three main components, the motor, the wiper gears, and the tracks the wipers move in, are all one integrated unit. The wiper problem is not uncommon. Try giving the wipers a hand with the engine running (at idle of course,) that should also cause them to start working again. What usually happens is the wiper gears get stuck.

          That type of system integration has been the trend for the past several years. It increases the repair costs when one of the integrated components fails.
      • Re: Windshield wiper bugaboo.

        Fri, June 23, 2006 - 5:50 PM
        Hello, I just bought an '01 A4 Quattro with 123k miles a week ago. I noticed the blades moved kind of slowly but thought maybe they didn't move "normally" until it sensed rain. Well, today there was rain...and I had wipers that got stuck just like a Josh's in a previous thread. It sounds like it might be the linkage, but how do I test this for sure? The blades actually seem too tight when I try to move them. The person I bought the car from is a "friend" of my boyfriend and he said he can almost guarantee they just need to be lubed up since they haven't moved for a little while (I'm hoping that's it), but if it isn't, how do I confirm whether or not it IS the linkage since it sounds like it's most likely not the motor.

        While I'm here, I was also going to get a tune-up, oil change, etc since I don't know the last time it was done on this car. With the mileage, what do you recommend I have done? What oil should I use, 5W-30? I am familiar with synthetic oil b/c I used it on my '02 Jetta, I just want to make sure I take care of this car as much as I can so it lasts me a couple more years. I've read a lot of leakage and other issues in the higher mile cars on this thread so I'm a little concerned.

        Any suggestions are appreciated! Thanks!
  • Re: got any questions?

    Fri, January 27, 2006 - 11:29 AM
    Josh,

    I have a 2006 Audi A4 2.0T that I believe is leaking oil. I've had the car since May of 2005 and no problems until this oil thing. The car has about 13K on it and has had the 5K service done by the dealer, which was done around Sept/Oct. In December (12/23) of 05' the yellow Oil Min light came on while on a long road trip down to RI. I drove the car the next morning to the Audi dealer down there and the added about two quarts of oil to the car, along with checking for leaks. So, know there may be a problem I checked the oil on 1/27 and the dip stick now reads MIN....were has all of that oil gone in that short about of time? Could this be an Oil leak or are the 2.0T engines consuming lot's of oil, if so what's an respectable rate for oil consumption for this new engine line? The car is going back to the dealer on Monday for further checks. How have the A3's been thus far compared with the new A4's? Thanks again for your time.....
    John
    • Unsu...
       

      Re: got any questions?

      Mon, February 6, 2006 - 11:53 PM
      normal consumtion is 1 qt ever 800-1000 miles. might seem excessive until you consider that the oil lubricates the piston walls and gets mixed into the combustion process. hence some oil is getting burned. its hard to say not knowing your milage between services and how much you drive.
  • gas killer

    Mon, February 13, 2006 - 8:55 AM
    Hi,

    My 1999 A6 quattro 2.8 (no turbo) consumes on average about 16 mpg, these are combined hwy and city miles. After 3hrs driving on hwy it did not go over 17 and I am not very aggressive driver. I think it's too much.
    For example, auto.consumerguide.com mentions about 17/27 and 22.4 of observed mpg.
    What do you guys think about how to improve mpg? I've heard about changing air filter, spark plugs, can this be done by myself?
    Also I don't think these will result in much of an improvement (from 16 to 22 mpg).

    Thanks
    • Unsu...
       

      Re: gas killer

      Tue, February 14, 2006 - 6:13 PM
      Hi Yerzhan,

      Keeping any car tuned-up is important for gas mileage. If your Audi is badly in need of
      a tune-up, there is a good chance the "Check-Engine" light will come on due to misfires
      or fuel-trim difficulty. Bad oxygen sensors can also hurt gas mileage. There are other
      things also. How many miles has it been since the last tune-up? (spark plugs, air filter, etc.)

      Cheers,

      Adrien
      • Re: gas killer

        Sat, February 18, 2006 - 8:55 AM
        HI Adrien,

        I am not sure since I bought this 2 mo ago. I know that it had 90K service at 78K (now 94K) but not sure if this service inluded tune-up.

        So a tune-up includes spark plugs, wires, air filter, distributor cap and rotor?
        With other cars these can be done without going to shop, how about this 99 A6?

        Thanks,

        Yerzhan
        • Unsu...
           

          Re: gas killer

          Mon, February 20, 2006 - 7:30 PM
          on a 99 a6 a typical two year major service is plugs, no wires(very expensive), no cap, air filter, pollen filter, oil change, a quick look around the car(underneath and around) for any issues- i.e.- tie rod boots torn, brakes, oil leaks, trans leaks, and a scan with the scantool for any issues with the airbag, engine, trans, alarm, radio,ip cluster. do this first and also what gas do you use? 87 will lower mpg, use audis specs for the gas you'll be surprised.
          • Re: gas killer+ switching to synthetic oil

            Wed, February 22, 2006 - 12:21 PM
            I use gas 93, I changed plugs and air filter by myself, there is good improvement in driving, faster and smoother, haven't noticed gas mileage improvement yet.
            However, I just noticed a different problem. I switched to synthetic oil (mobile 0W40) about 1.5 mo ago, and what I am noticing now is some oil burning in the morning after cold night. After engine warms, smoke dissappears. This happened to me already with my old mazda when they put synthetic by mistake for free (i did not mind) but in a month it started to smoke in cold mornings like hell.
            With my Audi A6 smoke is much less but still bothering. I am not completely sure but I've read that synthetic oil washes certain seals in older engines (my audi has 94K) and during cold weather these seals shrink further and oil leaks to cylinders. This explanation kinda makes sense to me. What do you think , guys? How this can be treated? I am thinking to put thicker synthetic oil smth like 10W40.
  • Oil Min. Light Not Going Away

    Thu, February 23, 2006 - 12:33 PM
    I have a 2001 Audi TT 180 FWD
    I got a Oil Min light yesterday after starting my car...

    I immediately shut it off and add half a quart of Mobil 1 5w-30, what it's had since new.
    Turned on car, Oil Min light *still* on.
    Drive 1 block, stop, 5 min later check dipstick. The oil level is just at the bottom "low" mark.
    I add the remainder of the first quart. OIl Min light *still* on.
    I drive 2 miles and grab a new case of oil. I first check the dipstick, oil level is halfway between marks.
    I then add 1/4 of the second quart, Oil Min light *still* on.
    I have no choice but to drive home, ~ 10 miles. The Oil Min light remains on.
    Checked the car this morning... guess what? Oil Min light!

    Does the Oil Min light mean low pressure, or low oil level? The "Min" light is not displayed in the manual at all, only an Oil/genie lamp without the "Min." Perhaps that would be a separate light that indicates low oil pressure?

    I understand that if the car mesaures its oil level by the oil pressure, they are one in the same. If the light is in fact an independent oil level indicator, then I feel comfortable driving the car since I know it has adequate oil.. just a sender unit issue.

    Any thoughts? I'm quite a bit out of warranty and would like to possibly save myself a trip to the dealer ;) I have no problem turning wrenches, replacing sensors, and have the Bentley manual. Doing any work on the car will require a drive to a friend's house, however.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks in advance!

    2001 Audi TT 180 FWD
    52k miles
    • Unsu...
       

      Re: Oil Min. Light Not Going Away

      Thu, February 23, 2006 - 7:31 PM
      ok, first question- well audis are prone to leaking at high milage, when was the last time the t-belt, cam seals, v/c gaskets, and cam tensioner gaskets replaced? these can leak and are probably your problem. if your a little car savy get a flashlight and look around the back of the engine on the heads and you'll probably see your leak. its dripping onto the exaust. i warn you though if this is the case it can be a little expensive(lotta hours to replace cam tensioner gaskets-well not a lot but if you go with the package t-belt and seals it could end up costing you about 3k) sorry i know this sucks but those being the most common and probable leaks its a safe bet they should be done.)
      second question- its either the oil level sender gone bad or the oil pressure sensor is wiggig out. this could be caused by a clogged oil pick-up in the oil pan. safe bet either way the pan might need to come off to determine the cause.
      • Re: Oil Min. Light Not Going Away

        Tue, February 28, 2006 - 9:58 AM
        thanks joshua!

        i needed the car asap, but had no place to pull the pan. i reluctantly took it to the dealership. they spent the first $111 diagnostic hour to check the oil pressure sensor. no luck. the next step was pulling the pan and checking the pickup, as you said. fortunately, someone decided instead to disconnect the battery and reset the engine codes. bling! no more Oil Min light!

        in looking through the bentley repair manual, i had read before that if the engine revs above 5000 rpm with the Oil Min light, the code will not clear. my slappo friend had indeed pushed my car with the light on!!! i mentioned this to the service rep when i dropped the car off, but i'm sure they hear lots of things. i think it's time for me to get a VAG cable and some garage space ;)

        it will soon be time for the dreaded timing belt/roller/water pump replacement, but i have an audi/vw tech doing that for beer and twinkies.

        anyway, thanks again. i really appreciate your help!
  • coolant

    Sun, March 5, 2006 - 2:38 PM
    Hi,

    Is it recommended to use only G12 red/purple coolant for Audi A6 quatro 1999?
    Can regular green coolant be used or mixed with it ?
    • Unsu...
       

      Re: coolant

      Sun, March 5, 2006 - 10:21 PM
      no do not intermix these two. it can get very expensive and its really bad for the motor.
      use the approved red coolant.
      • Re: coolant

        Mon, March 6, 2006 - 9:25 AM
        thanks,

        I am asking because my antifreeze is leaking
        After I park my car overnight, I am observing a wet spot on the ground below bumper more or less in the center. What be the usual suspect for this car: water pump, radiator, hoses?
        • Unsu...
           

          Re: coolant

          Tue, March 7, 2006 - 3:02 PM
          Could be any one of those things (leaking radiator, hose, water pump.) You should bring it in and have them perform a cooling system pressure test (where they pressurize the cooling system to ~ 15 psi then see where the leaks are.)

          Another thing about fixing cooling system leaks. It is common, especially in older cars, to fix the source of a leak, only to then have another leak occur almost immediately afterward. This is because a liquid under pressure will force its way out of the weakest point; when the weak point is fixed, the next weakest point, if weak enough, will then rupture. I've seen cases where two or three additional leaks occurred (and hopefully the customer understands the reason why, this phenomenon can really strain customer relations.) Your car is fairly new, so this shouldn't happen in your case.
          • Re: coolant

            Tue, March 7, 2006 - 4:25 PM
            I brought my car today to the shop close to my home. He did not do pressure test, they lifted a car, cleaned underneath and watched for leaks while car was running for about 30 min. He thinks that the problem is with couple of hoses but water pump and radiator are ok. We also noticed oil leak from oil "hose" (or line?), which runs from oil filter area to engine area (i think but don't really know). DO you think it is reasonable diagnosis? Also I am not sure where to find them and what are the part names?

            I also discovered that my both CV boots are bad so I need fix this as well. By the way, I found out that there are very inexpensive remanufactured axleshafts assemblies at Autozone (made by Duralast) and Advanced autoparts (Cardone). The price difference is huge compared to dealer's prices, and I guess one does not need Audi tech expertise to install these axles? sorry too many questions...
            • Unsu...
               

              Re: coolant

              Wed, March 8, 2006 - 10:24 AM
              You really should do a pressure test.

              The little hose from the oil filter area is the oil cooler hose. You'll notice that it attaches to a small square box that the oil filter sleeve screws into, that is the oil cooler, then it runs upward and attaches to a pipe. That hose contains coolant.

              The aftermaket CV axels are O.K., but won't last as long as OE. It really is better to keep the ones you have and replace the boots. There is also an old trick, where you swap the joint cages and balls from one side to another, this will greatly extend the life of the CV joints. You should have an experienced person do that for you, I wouldn't try it yourself.

              It is O.K. to add a little water to the cooling system, until you fix the problem. Regular water is better because it won't leach minerals from the aluminum engine head and other areas.
    • Unsu...
       

      Re: coolant

      Tue, March 7, 2006 - 2:54 PM
      If you mix the two (VW/Audi Red & Green coolants) they will form a brown sludge that will build up throughout the entire cooling system (engine, hoses, heater core, radiator.) You will then have to perform multiple cooling system flushes, first with a couple of teaspoons of dish soap & water and then 2-3 flushes with strait water (to clean out the phosphorus from the soap.) It takes about 2 hours to do the flushes. Also, keep in mind that the Red coolant sold by some Japanese manufacturers is NOT the same as the VW/Audi Red coolant. The VW/Audi Red coolant is good stuff, lasts forever and is safer for the environment, but is not compatible with the Green or Blue coolants. You can mix the VW/Audi Blue coolant with Green coolant, but NOT with the Red.

      This can be a problem when bringing your Audi to an independant shop not familiar with VW/Audi. I know people who brought their Audis to independant shops for cooling system work, only to have the shop mix the Red with the Green without knowing the problem that causes. Also, never let a gas station, jiffy lube, or independant shop "top off" your coolant without first making sure they are using the proper coolant.

  • VP
    VP
    offline 0

    Wiper Blade Starts higher

    Sat, March 11, 2006 - 3:05 PM
    Had a question. Recently had my wiper linkage blad replaced. Used the wipers while driving in the rain a couple days later and while they were in use, they kind of stopped in the middle. had to turn the wiper off and back on and now the wiper blades (even in the off position) start higher. They look like they moved up 6 inches and if i turn the car off and push the blades down they will stay down but as soon as i turn the car on again they pop back up higher. Do you have any ideas what is going on here? Could it be a loose screw? Or the motor track causing the wippers to start higher?

    Thanks for your help.
    • Unsu...
       

      Re: Wiper Blade Starts higher

      Sun, March 12, 2006 - 7:51 PM
      it sounds like the wiper arms weren't tightened all the way if the covering caps are still on take a flat blade screwdriver and insert it into the groove and pop the cap off its a sixteen millimeter nut just tighten the nut and check should be ok. to align the arms just put the left one a about an inch inch and a half down from the top of the dash, tighten and check by switching the wipers on.
      • oil leaks

        Thu, March 23, 2006 - 2:36 PM
        hi, I am back

        you guys mentioned here several times that Audis are prone to oil leaks
        and ussually these come from cam seals and gaskets. Well my leaks are coming from the top of the engine and dropping onto coolant hoses making them leaking as well (because they absorb this oil). Also in winter there was a exhaust smell inside if heating was on. I have to add a quart of oil since my last oil change which was 3-4K miles ago. I've heard also that changing engine seals and gaskets is expensive job and could cost about $1500-3000 or somebody told me its 12 hours job, t-belt has been changed 15K miles ago
        I plan to fix these leaks next winter, so my question is what bad can happen if I don't fix oil leaks and simply keep an eye on oil and antifreeze levels adding them if needed.
        • Unsu...
           

          Re: oil leaks

          Fri, March 24, 2006 - 6:51 PM
          You should have the car inspected to determine exactly where the leaks are coming from. You don't have to replace all the seals, just the leaking ones. What year/model and engine is it?
          • Re: oil leaks

            Sun, March 26, 2006 - 10:12 AM
            it's 1999 A6 quattro 2.8
            looks like my leaks are dropping on exhaust and coolant hoses above oil filter
      • Re: Wiper Blade Starts higher

        Tue, March 24, 2009 - 4:24 PM
        Im having the same issue with my wipers starting their cycle at the top of my windshield. I tried taking the caps off and loosening the nut . I even took the nut off and tried to taking the blade off the bolt but it didn't want to come off. I think that its weird that if one of the nuts were loose that both blades would get stuck in the up position. Is there another way to get the blades back to the original position? i dont think that anything is broken cause they still work perfectly, they are just in the wrong position.
  • Re: got any questions?

    Thu, March 23, 2006 - 2:56 PM
    YES- 2003 a4
    I use the ashtray to hold coins in after removing the inset. Of course a coin fell in the gap the retractable lid folds back into. The dealer wanted $100 to crack it open and fish it out so the lid can open and shut. The lid moves, but can't retract al the way and wont stay shut now either. Shhoving a wire around int he re didn't do anything either. Any pointers?
    • Unsu...
       

      Re: got any questions?

      Thu, March 23, 2006 - 11:49 PM
      nope have to remove radio, and then the a/c control head to remove ahstray and then the coin. i know its a pain but if you keep the leve l of coins below the top of the ashtray its not a problem.
      its the same for all cars. the coins issue was never factored into the audi before manufactring.
      sorry on laptop and typing fast....
  • KAL
    KAL
    offline 0

    Re: got any questions?

    Tue, March 28, 2006 - 11:19 AM
    please check my 1999 audi a41.8t HELP post, just purchased it two days ago and it has a shit load of lights that have come on...
  • How to remove ashtray

    Sun, April 9, 2006 - 1:49 PM
    I've been trying to remove the front ashtray of my 2001 A6 for a project I'm working on. I got the radio out and the A/C controls out, then pressed down on the tabs to remove the ashtray as it says in the eBahn manual. But it will only come out about 1/2 inch. I can't figure out what I'm doing wrong? Any suggestions?

    David
  • COOLANT LEAK MAJOR

    Tue, April 25, 2006 - 6:31 AM
    Thanks for your consideration.
    UK 1999 A6 2.5TDi 150,000 lovely eco friendly, runs 50/50 with veg oil. (periodically)

    Recently, monthly, I have to top up coolant with quarter gallon. No outward displays of leakage. I see pressure testing can exaccerbate leaks.

    Whats the prognosis? How long will it take? What should be included in the service for value?

    Cheers
    • Unsu...
       

      Re: COOLANT LEAK MAJOR

      Fri, April 28, 2006 - 7:24 PM
      hard to say im not really familiar with some of the diesels. just pressure check it and see where its leakinging if its a bad leak then it may speed things up alittle but it beats having the car die on the road
  • 1999 A3 1.8T centre console removal

    Sat, April 29, 2006 - 6:25 AM
    Hi Joshua

    The indicator switch on my 1999 A3 1.8T stopped working. I bought the replacement switch today and need to know how to replace the old one with it? It is situated in the centre consol of the dash behind the hazard light switch (one and the same) and I'm not sure how to remove the centre console facia to get to the actual switch?

    Can you help me with instructions?
  • Re: got any questions?

    Sat, April 29, 2006 - 7:45 PM
    Hey Joshua,

    So, I compulsively bought a '97 A4 Quattro with about 150k miles on it last week. It's been my dream car ever since i was 16. Unfortunately, I failed to have it looked at before I bought it, because I got such a great deal, and I didn't want it to get away. So, sure enough, a few days into my new ownership, I smell burning oil.... So I have a look under the car, and there is oil residue all over the bottom of the car. I could actually see smoke coming from one of the shields under the car. So I'm assuming that this has been a problem for quite a while, and that the previous owner neglected to get it taken care of. So I took it to my local mechanic, and he said that there was too much residue to even figure out where the leak originates. So he put some die in my engine, which will supposedly allow them to locate where the leak actually is. I went though the perivous owner's service records, and its latest record mentioned "oil leak coming from under both cylinder heads". So... my first inclination would be a cylinder head gasket. I want to be prepared when I go back into this mechanic, so that I can make an educated decision on how to move forward with the problem. Any idea on how much labor i should expect to replace the head gaskets? If it isn't the head gaskets, and other suggestions on what to look for? Any help would be so greatly appreciated!!!!!

    Cheers
    Jeff
    • Unsu...
       

      Re: got any questions?

      Sat, April 29, 2006 - 11:03 PM
      depends on the motor, im going to assume its a 1.8t check the cam chain tensioner gasket first. most probable leak, then go to the cam seals. but if the leaks on the front of the engine might as well replace timing belt and water pump.and next the oil pan gaskets leaking. then i would go to the engine head. same goes for the 2.8. though it depends on what motor. i forget if that car has the old 2.8 or the new one.but before going as far as a full tear down look at these first.
  • Re: got any questions?

    Sun, May 7, 2006 - 12:30 PM
    I posted another question in this forum with more detail on my problem, which is replacing the flasher module in a 2002 A6 3.0. I'm still guessing at it, but I did figure out that the top wood panel comes off relatively easily and I'm now looking at two screws on either end that I'm afraid to removed based on another comment I saw here. How do I get to that flasher unit without pulling apart the whole dashboard?
  • lost oil pressure

    Thu, May 11, 2006 - 6:05 AM
    Just purchased 2001 A4 Quat. 1.8T. Suddenly got low oil pressure warning. No visible leaks, no clouding of oil. No visible problems. Windshield sticker indicates oil was changed just before purchase - probably not synthetic, and suspect coking problem. Is it possible to flush? What first steps should I take. Thanks for any advice you can offer!
    • Re: lost oil pressure

      Wed, July 5, 2006 - 9:06 AM
      Hello. I am having the SAME problem that was reported by Bruce in his May 11, 2006 post. Except, I have owned my car (2001 A4 1.8T Front Track) since new (now at 115,000 mi). I change the oil every 5k but I do not use synthetic because I did not understand that it was an issue until i started reading this web site. My mechanic (non-dealer) changed the "oil pressure sensor" last week but that did not help. The oil pressure light still comes on. Is it the coking problem? What should my mechanic check next? Is there really an 8yr. extension of the engine warrantee offered by audi?

      Also, what is the "ticking" that you mentioned you check for in one of your prior posts? This may not be related but I now notice a little ticking coming from the engine when I have the window open and I am accelerating from a stop and making a left turn. I suspect the ticking occurs at other times but perhaps it is only audible from the driver's seat (for now!) at this time. Thanks so much for any assistance!
  • 2001 Audi TT Roadster Alignment 1.8T FWD

    Wed, June 7, 2006 - 12:40 PM
    I bought the car used, and it needs an alignment as it pulls to the left. Would you know if I would need to get both front and back aligned? Also, can I take to any shop or do I need to take it to an Audi dealer? The closest dealer is 120 miles away. Is there anything else this could be besides an alignment issue?

    Mileage is 43,647.
    • Re: 2001 Audi TT Roadster Alignment 1.8T FWD

      Wed, June 7, 2006 - 3:44 PM
      I'm not a mechanic, just another owner

      It could be a lot of other isues in addition to an alignment. An advantage of going to an Audi dealer is that they may be able to look over other stuff while the car is up on the rack.

      Do you have service records to tell if the car has had an alignment in the past year? at 43K sometime tires may have been replaced, was an alignment done then? Mileage is still low and alignments are cheap compared to other stuff. So I think just getting the alignment if it hasn't been done recently is a reasonable first step. Also if the tires need to be replaced it may be a good idea to do that at the same time.

      On my A4, you must get all 4 wheels aligned. I would assume the same for a roadster.
  • Re: got any questions? ENGINE LEAK.

    Wed, June 14, 2006 - 5:54 AM
    Hi.

    I have a 1992 Audi 100s, V6, and it just recently started leaking engine oil. It's wet on the back of the engine, and runs down and back to the Catalytic Converter, where it burns. It's been degreased and dyed, and one shop said it could be the rear main engine seal. Another shop said it was probably the plenum gasket on the top of the engine, as they said alot of oil was gathering in the valley between the V. I had never heard of this on an Audi. Any thoughts?

    Thanks.

    Giovanni.
  • Unsu...
     

    Re: got any questions?

    Tue, June 20, 2006 - 3:35 PM
    What do you think should be the frequency of replacement for cv boots for a 2000 A4?
    TIA,
    Marianne
  • Ali
    Ali
    offline 0

    Window Wipers Won't Work

    Mon, June 26, 2006 - 4:43 AM
    Hello,

    Not sure if you can help? The window wipers on my A4 have pretty much stopped working. For a while they moved really slowly, but with persistance they gradually built up enough momentum to clear the window. Since returning from holiday however, they have got worse and now slowly creep up the windscreen and stop 1/2 way where I have to get out and physically help them finish their cycle. (Thankfully I can take our other car in the rain!)

    I can't seem to find any decent home fix-it solutions on-line, nor what price to expect if I take it to my local dealer? Any suggestions?

    Thanks in advance,
    Ali
  • Max
    Max
    offline 0

    Re: got any questions?

    Wed, June 28, 2006 - 11:04 AM
    I've searched the web high al low and can't find two items that I need replaced on a 2002 A6 Quattro, 3.0.
    First is the dip stick, it broke in half a month after I bought the used car, and second, I need the fog light grill for the drivers side. Seems the tabs broke off and it escaped.
    Any help, direction or suggestion would be welcomed, I'd try a local dealer but I'm trying to stay away from having to get a second mortgage!!
    Thanks,
    Max
  • Re: got any questions?

    Tue, July 18, 2006 - 3:39 PM
    Hi... Thanks in advance for your help.

    My passenger-side window washer nozzle is clogged (I know it's clogged because the other one/pump/hoses are all working and there is a very weak stream coming from the clogged one, which was pumping fine just days ago). I found a website describing the process of how to unclog these things in general(www.popularmechanics.com/autom...6.html

    However, I guess the Audi TT (2000) system is different as I just do not see the clips which I need to push down with pliers to remove the nozzle to then unclog it. Do I need to remove the black plastic tray on top of which the nozzle rests? But this would require unscrewing the windshield wipers, which hold it in place. I don't want to do anything drastic and screw it up... so I figured I'd ask for some advice.

    My car is still under the CPO so I don't know if this may even be covered. In any case, I'd really like to avoid any additional expenses as I literally was on my way home from the dealer when I realized the problem, just having spent $480 on unrelated repairs. I think I could do this myself if only I knew how to remove the nozzles...

    Your help is really appreciated!
  • Pesky Check Engine Light

    Tue, July 18, 2006 - 7:20 PM
    I have been experiencing the "Check Engine Light" occasionally. It only comes on when the A/C is on, and when I step on the accelerator at the same time. For example, the light comes on while accelerating, turn off A/C, light goes out. The light would also go off if I back off the accelerator. I also have a whirring noise that sounds like a chain, once again only when the A/C is on. I assume this might have to do with one of the belts associated with the A/C. Is there any crosslink between the drive for the A/C belts and the check engine light? Any other ideas?
  • Re: got any questions?

    Sat, July 29, 2006 - 3:31 PM
    My 2001 a4 was sitting for about 5 months and the battery died. My key alarm isnt working i got new batteries and tried the little "handshake" with it and it still isnt unlocking the car. I have to basicly jimmy rig it each time I want to open or unlock the door by locking the driver door from the back of the car so the alarm goes off. Got any suggestions on how to get the key working again?
  • Coolant refill / water pump

    Wed, August 9, 2006 - 4:37 PM
    My girlfriend has a 2001 Audi TT

    We recently discovered she had a coolant leak from a seal on the water pump.

    The dealer said that the water pump needed to be replaced and since that was being replaced we needed to do the timing belt as well. In total this was going to be a couple grand and some time to fix, neither of which she has at this time.

    I thought about a quick fix solution and thought abount pouring some 'Stop Leak' into the radiator. Is this a bad idea?

    Secondly, in order to keep water in the system, can I just pour distilled water into the overflow? Is that also where I should pour the 'Stop Leak'?

    Thanks
    • Cr
      Cr
      offline 0

      Re: Coolant refill / water pump

      Thu, August 10, 2006 - 9:27 PM
      before you do anything...get a second opinion...verify that the water pump is leaking...had my timing belt and water pump replaced cause my mechanic thaught the pump was leaking, turned out to be a hose close to water pump area that was leaking.
  • Re: got any questions?

    Wed, August 16, 2006 - 12:51 PM
    i have an 2000 audi tt quattro coupe 1.8T with 78,200 miles and the engine is gone; mechanic says valves bent, rod busted, cam & bearings toast. I bought it 4 months ago from an independent used auto dealer. It was running fine until I got off the freeway and noticed the engine making a knocking noise.

    do you know any places to go (i'm near philly, pa) to get the engine replaced and about how much i may expect to spend.

    plus, is there any way to get audi to cover this, since it seems common for this engine to breakdown
  • Hi,

    Just acquired a 2002 A4 1.8T Quattro (sport) about one month ago. The car had 98,000 kilometers (about 61,000 miles) The car seemed in great shape. The used car dealer (not Audi) let me have it for two days before I bought it and everything seemed fine. A mechanic that I took it to noted that it "seemed like new" - but this was just a rudimentary visual inspection and checks for leaks, etc.

    About 200 KMs into my ownership of the car I fell victim to the "oil sludge" problem. I was able to get the car to the local Audi dealer. They seemed pretty good. They were able to pull the service record for the car and update my service manual. Unfortuantely, the previous owner lapsed a few thousand kilometers on his service schedule and Audi was at first refusing to honor the extended warranty on the engine. With a little "discussion" between the used car dealer, the auction house, VW and Audi, they decided to cover the "repair" under the extended engine warranty. They did not replace the engine just some key components - oil lifter, pumps, hoses, etc. (They cleaned out the sludge and flushed the system).

    1. Once I got the car back, I noticed a very loud "whirring/whining" sound coming from the engine that only manifests itself while the car is in gear and I am accelerating. The noise starts at about 2100 RPM and gets louder and higher in frequency as the RPMs increase. I just want to know if this is the Turbo and can be related to the initial oil sludge problem. I can't figure it being anything else. It is hard to pinpoint exactly as this only occurs when in drive (whether in Auto or tip mode) and while accelerating - foot needs to be on the gas for this to occur - i.e. if I take the foot off the accelerator even at 4000RPM the noise immediately stops.

    2. The Audi technician is also now claiming that I have a problem with my evaporator. What is this and what does this mean? Can this also be related to the oil sludge problem "fixed" last week

    3. My stereo - the stock Symphony system - has one row of its LED display burnt out. Can this be easily repaired or am I looking at a total replacement (which likely wouldn't be worth the money)?

    Everything else on the car is fantastic. I love the car - I just want it to work (and I would like to have it in my possession more than in the repair shop's).

    Thanks
    • I'm not a mechanic, and I guess the guy answering questions is taking an extended vacation but here is my 5 cents:

      I drive a TT turbo, so it's not an A4, but all I can say is that the engine is really quiet when you accelerate - like, it "purrs" or whatever people call it, and sounds pretty ferocious, but it definitely doesn't whirr loudly - it's really not supposed to. And if it is following "repair", I think you should take it back to where they repaired it and make sure everything was done right.

      Frankly, Audi is amazing with their warranty - they do their best to help and answer all questions. You can even call their customer service reps and tell them what's going on and they'll make sure to call your mechanic and get additional information for you.

      Good luck.
    • I feel your pain. I had my 2001 A4 1.8T Quattro in the shop for the months of September and October 2005, and then again early this summer....no fun! My car decided to join the sludge club.

      Late September, Oil Min light came on and local Audi dealer mech. told me not to worry about it. A couple of days later, my car was being towed from the roadside after hard knocking, check engine light coming on and beginning to overheat - not to mention zero pickup on the interstate. So after "nearest to break down" Audi dealer garage attempted to fix my car (running a sludge kit through the engine, and replacing the turbo), I got my car back. It barely ran and had no pickup. Drove about 15 miles, car was towed to my Audi dealer garage. Turbo was fried after "other" Audi dealer failed to run the sludge kit properly.

      Mid October, after two weeks in the garage I got my car back. My Audi dealer ran the sludge thing through the lines. Checked the engine. Found: clogged oil screen, fried turbo - no oil was getting in the pickup. After a sludge kit, putting in synthetic oil (*apparently Audi knows this happens frequently - this is their solution*), putting in bigger oil filter and replacing the turbo, my car was good to go - for about a week. Noticed a high pitched "whir" or rather more a "squeal," sounded similiar to an electric golf cart. Took car back to Audi dealer and he said the turbo was fried, once again.

      Early this summer, driving on interstate and couldnt get car over 55mph. Scary. Pulled over, had car towed to my dealer, had the fried turbo replaced once again. Puzzled my mechanic. He asked me if the car was ever 'chipped.' It was not. He then went on to say that these problems are likely due to the oil sludge problem my car fell victim to.

      Three turbos replaced in 6 months. Next time the turbo goes, my car goes. If not sooner.

      I am willing to bet that this new loud pitch sound you are hearing is the turbo failing. If you haven't already taken, or towed, your car back to the shop, I would recommend doing so. You should not pay for this replacement.

      Note: my car has never been worked on by anyone other than a certified Audi mechanic at a certified Audi dealer. Perfect attendance on the maintenance schedule as well.
  • coolant light

    Tue, September 12, 2006 - 8:43 PM
    i have a 2002 A6 2.7 turbo. about 2 months aog i had the coolant level refilled. took to an audi dealer and they tooped it off and said it looked good. 2 months later the coolant light is telling me that its low again. i havent noticed any differences in the idle or driving of the car. concerned i spoke to an audi mechanic who told me that there may be a leak internal or external. he told me that and external leak would require a new resivior, if it was an internal leak that it involved a pricey service to the gaskets. he also told me that the sensor maybe corroded. have you any suggestions. i have never once noticed an external leak, and last week i had my oil changed and the tech told me it looked all good. is this a typical problem and do you have any tips so that i can try to figure this problem out on my own without spending thousands
  • Re: got any questions?

    Tue, September 12, 2006 - 8:45 PM
    oh yeah, the coolant light only comes on when i start the car in the morning and usually stays off all day. sometime if the cars sits for more than 10 hours it will flash again. in both cases the light goes away after a few minutes. tech told me to fill it with some water. but how much should i put in.
  • Re: got any questions?

    Fri, September 15, 2006 - 12:10 PM
    Hi- In your experience, have there been instances where oil leak requiring replacement of cam tensioner seal & valve cover gasket been covered by warranty?

    Thanks in advance
  • Re: got any questions?

    Fri, September 22, 2006 - 6:53 AM
    Hi

    Im new to the tribe, & app yr help.
    I was wondering if you could direct me on how to replace my indicator lights on the front fenders. Ive got an audi a3 2000 model.

    Regards T
  • Knocking in the dashboard of Audi Q7 - pls help

    Thu, November 2, 2006 - 5:59 AM
    Hi Audi Tech, thank you so much for doing this! I have a question, we just bought a Q7 and noticed on they way home from the dealership (ha) that it has a very loud knocking noise in the dash. It comes and goes. We took it to the dealer and they can't find the problem. It almost just sounds like heavy wires are knocking into one another under the dash. Any advice? thanks!
    Julie
  • HELP

    Fri, November 10, 2006 - 3:01 AM
    Hy! I am new on this web site and recently bought a used 1999 AUDI A4. My problem appeared 2 days ago. On the screen where milleage usually appears, right now for 15 seconds after i start the car instead of the milleage appears "SERVICE INSP". What is that? Is it the timing belt? The car has 65000 miles and i don't know the recent owner(bought it frim a dealer).What's the problem?
    Thank you.
  • coolant leaking into engine

    Tue, November 21, 2006 - 8:52 PM
    hello,
    my girlfriend has a 2002 A4. Engine light came on.. and the car idles a little funny when starting and giving it a little gas. Her mechanic told her that the coolant was leaking into the engine and told her it would $2000 to fix ($600 just to take off the cylinder head). Is this problem typical? should she get a second opinion? And is this a fair price to fix the problem? Also, should she go get it fixed at the dealer? beter/cheaper?
    thanks so much for your help!!
  • Jim
    Jim
    offline 0

    Loud Power Steering Pump.

    Wed, December 6, 2006 - 9:33 PM
    Hi- I drive a 2000 A6 Avant 2.8 with 77k on the odometer- I've kept up the maintainance, but in the last few days my poower steering pump has gotten very loud, and the pitch of the sound varies with the speed of my car and with the rotation of the steering wheel. recently, i had to drive through some standing water- about 4 inches deep- and the weather has cooled down substantially, with highs around freezing and lows in the upper teens. I've been driving this car for about 3.5 years, and have put 52k on it in that time, and haven't had any steering issues. Thanks for any advice.
    -Jim
  • d
    d
    offline 0

    Trouble removing air filter. 1999 Audi Quattro 1.8t.

    Fri, December 29, 2006 - 6:47 AM
    I'm trying to figure out how to remove the air filter from my 1999 Audi Quattro 1.8t. I've managed to access the air filter, but can't seem to lift the top of the box off enough to get the damn thing out! I've tried removing this big hose leading to the air box (by unscrewing the clamp), but still don't have enough leeway with all the wires attached to the top of the box. I'm completely frustrated and would appreciate any help. Thanks!
  • Re: got any questions?

    Thu, March 15, 2007 - 10:06 PM
    Why did my 2002 Audi TT suddenly begin to display kilometers, not miles. It displays kilometers in the odometer, Trip Computer and Instrument Cluster displays. The date also changed from month, day, year to day, month, year.

    The only thing I can think to do is replace the fuse that controls the insturment cluster.

    Thanks,
    Joyce
  • Re: got any questions?

    Sun, March 18, 2007 - 7:39 AM
    i was reading this thread concerning the wiper blades getting stuck. my problem is similar: the wiper blades work fine when i use them, the only problem now is that after a reacent snow when i use them they work, but when i shut them off they stop at a 45 degree angle. i jiggled them and nothing, i looked to see if there was a bolt loose and when i tried turing the bolt the wiper blades went down. but soon as i turn them on, its the same thing all over again. i need some help.
  • Re: got any questions?

    Wed, March 21, 2007 - 3:15 PM
    my car got broken in to and I need to replace the right front passenger glass. I need to know the procedure to dismantle the door panel and put the new glass in. Thanks for your input.
    • Re: got any questions?

      Fri, March 23, 2007 - 6:06 PM
      I got the replacement glass from the junkyard and was able to put it in by myself. It was a little challenging and I'm happy that I saved $200 for the price of labor.
  • Re: got any questions?

    Mon, March 26, 2007 - 8:11 AM
    Urgent!! Timimng Belt Issue?

    when does the timing belt on an A4 1.8T 2001 need to be changed? Car has 91,000 miles.
    also the engine rattles on startup like an old diesel car. I am using mobil 1 5w 30 oil.
    an idea if the two are connected?

    thanks
  • Re: got any questions?

    Tue, April 24, 2007 - 4:31 AM
    I have a 2002 A6 3.0 with about 54,000 miles. When I turn the A/C on it makes a whining noise that seems to increase with the speed of the car until i get to a certain speed then it goes away until you drive at lower speeds. It only does it when you are moving and It only does it in the auto mode. When i switch it to the economy mode the sound goes away but of course in the economy mode there is not much cool air coming out. Can anyone help with this because the dearler has not been much help?
  • Re: got any questions?

    Tue, April 24, 2007 - 9:22 PM
    i have a 98 A4 with an alarm problem! It seems to be a door switch problem but when i read my block values it seems that there is no signal from any door. the dome light is not coming on when opening any door and the gong alarms like there is a door open some where.
    Is there any other sugestion and do you have the block # for the door switches , perhaps im looking at the wrong block. oh yea nothing changes when i swap with a spair door lock modual. any help would be great......
  • Re: got any questions?

    Thu, May 3, 2007 - 4:33 PM
    Hey, I have a 2001 A4... The two sides of the remote (one has manual key, the other has lock/unlock buttons) will not stay together anymore. Too many battery changes has chipped off the little clip that holds the two pieces together. If I buy a remote with a blank key from ebay, is there a way to change out the key so I don't have to take it into the dealer and have the new one cut? I know they will kill me on the price... Thanks for your help! (PS- I know how to reprogram remote, but can't figure out whether or not I can remove/replace the key)
  • Oil pressure sensor

    Tue, May 22, 2007 - 1:26 PM
    heya

    i have a 2000 A3 and the oil pressure sensor light has come on. the oil level is fine, there are no weird noises and the car seems to be running normally but obviously i need to get this sorted. i have a sneaky suspicion that i may have caused this by driving along a friends driveway which is very uneven and i scraped the bottom of the car at one point - could that have affected the sensor?

    and is there something i can do to diagnose it?

    thanks
  • Re: got any questions?

    Fri, June 15, 2007 - 5:24 AM
    How many bad windsheild linkage have you found on A4-A6 model years 04 thru 07 ? is This somthing i Can fix at home since my avant is out of warrenty. Dealer wants over 500.00 to fix on a 3 year old car . This seems crazy ! thanks for your advice
    Jeff
    pace2_6992@yahoo.com
  • Re: got any questions?

    Tue, August 7, 2007 - 3:00 PM
    Hello,

    i replaced timing and water pump on my 99 audi a6 2.8. After about 2 weeks my coolant tee broke, so i replaced. The same coolant tee broke again after 2 days. Before, normal temperature stays at 190-200F level. Now about 230F. Is my car overheating? Should i be driving it? Any suggestion on finding problem? I can smell antifreeze all the time. Thanks
  • Sam
    Sam
    offline 0

    Audi Allroad mechanical question

    Wed, August 29, 2007 - 7:04 PM
    I have a 2004 Audi Allroad with 70,000 miles on it. I just drove about 150 highway miles nonstop and noticed that the rear passenger seat (driver's side) was extremely hot to the touch when when I arrived at my destination. Any ideas on what would be causing extreme heat in this part of the car? And does something like this make the car unsafe to drive? Appreciate any advice! Thanks...
  • Re: got any questions?

    Tue, November 27, 2007 - 7:17 AM
    I have sometimes have trouble starting my A4 1.8T Audi Avant when the weather is at freezing. I start it in the morning and drive to the post office (2 miles) and when I try and restart after sitting a couple of minutes the engine cranks but the engine does start, so far after trying and letting it sit and trying it a couple of times it starts.
    I have already replaced the battery and the spark plugs and it seems to crank over fine. Once it starts it runs great it only happens when the temp is at or near freezing, this problem started last winter but the weather warmed up it went away and all summer it started everytime with no issues, the problem started again when the weather got cold. Does anyone have a clue what would be causing this?
  • mal
    mal
    offline 0

    Re: got any questions?

    Fri, December 14, 2007 - 11:41 PM
    Hi I have an Audi A3 S reg and need to replace flasher unit I have taken radio out and can not get to Hazard swich from behind Advise please
  • Re: got any questions?

    Fri, May 9, 2008 - 6:10 PM
    i am the owner of a 2002 audi a4 3.0 there is slight ticking noise coming from the dash of my car do you have any idea of what this could be.
  • Re: got any questions?

    Sat, May 10, 2008 - 5:30 AM
    Hi, I have an A4 1.6 2000, my emission light came on and i had a miss fire, garage changed coil and leads. apparently cylinder 4 problem. it seemed to sort it . now the light is coming on quite regulary again but no apparent problem with engine running. does burn a little oil . but light is a worry
  • Re: got any questions?

    Wed, June 4, 2008 - 8:55 PM
    I have an audi a4 with the 2.8 it is a quattro with the tiptronic trans. The shifter doesnt go into second gear and i cant seem to get in slap mode. Some times it goes into slap mode by it self. I can hear something moving around under the plastic cover. I have been going nuts and i really need to fix this. Can you maybe tell me what i am in for and what it is going to take to fix this problem....Thank you so much it is really hard to get people to care about problems that arnt theres.
  • Sam
    Sam
    offline 0

    Re: got any questions?

    Tue, July 15, 2008 - 11:47 AM
    The compressor on my '04 Audi A6 makes a whining sound at 1500 RPM. I took it into the dealership and they told me that it was fine (in the sense that it still worked reasonably well) and that it probably just needed to be charged a bit. Well they charged it, but the compressor continued to make the noise. Now, its not making "cold" air. It makes "cool" air, but not as cold as it should be. Any ideas? Should I just take it back to the dealership and tell them to replace the compressor (its under extended warranty)?
  • Re: got any questions?

    Mon, November 30, 2009 - 10:47 AM
    i purchased an audi a4 1999 1/2. my main problem is....

    whenever i let off of my gas peddle my car makes this screeching noise from the front of the car, it feels like
    it comes from the middle, very close to the battery area. as soon as you press the gas the noise goes away.

    it's so scary to hear this from the car. we take it to our normal guy and he said he has never heard anything like this.

    it's sort of like tee tee tee tee tee. and it will get louder is you go over a bump or press the brake even more.

    PLEASE HELP ME!